Sea Fishing Rigs
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Don't do what I did and not bother buying the pieces because it looked complicated. Believe me it's not and it feels very rewarding when you go fishing using your own, home made, fishing rigs and even more so when you start landing great fish off of them. It will also save you a lot of money!
What you need
3x Swivel
1x Bead
1 Weight Clip
The benifits
When you reel in the line or when the fish takes the bait both of these cause the reaction of the weight being lifted out of harms way. In rocky areas this rig will seriously help prevent snags.

This setup also gives the fish less resistance when they take the bait also giving a better chance of catching it.
The set up
As with all rigs they are very flexible in design.

For the main line make it around 20 inches in length.

Start off tying on a swivel to one of the ends.

Now add another swivel and leave it freely on the line.

Now add a bead leaving it freely on the line

Now tie on the last swivel and attach the weight clip to one side and the line and hook on the other.

[size=20]How to make "The 1 up 1 down fishing rig"[/size]


Useful Tip
In most fishing tackle shop you can buy the crimping pliers but if they have them get the ones which have the tip of the pliers bending over at quite a large degree because these also making great pliers for getting hooks out of fish!
What you need
Spare line (you should always carry the excess line you have left over after filling up your reel)
Crimping Pliers
Weight Clip (if required)
Bait Clips (if required)
The setup
As with all rigs they are very flexible in design. As an example the bottom line and hook you see I often have much longer so it lays on the bottom on the bed way past the weight as this image of me with my catch shows. I then cut back if the top one is producing better results.

For the main line (the one you'll be crimping) make it around 20 inches in length.

Start off with the first crimp around 3 inches down from the top swivel.

Next you place a bead along the line. Depending on the size of the crimp you may need to buy both the small and large beads in case a large bead slides over the crimp.

Now you add the swivel but you don't use any knots. Just let it move freely.

Follow up with another bead and then a crimp.

Now move down the line around 17 inches and repeat the process

Finish off with a weight clip at the end.

Once that's done I then add the two lines to the two swivels.
I don't bother attaching the hooks on the two loose lines until I'm at my fishing spot. It makes carrying them about easier and you can decide what size hooks to use when you get to a location and ask the others fishing what's about.

[size=20]How to make a "Cod Rig"[/size]
This is a nice rig because I've found it doesn't tangle as easily as other rigs do.


1x Swivel
1x Bead for stop knot
2x Hook
Use your favourite bottom feeding rig and then attach the two hooks as shown.

You want to leave around 2 inches between the bead and main hook. This gives plenty of room to slide up the worms.

For the 2nd hook you want the line around 1 inch and on this hook you can tie on some peeler crabs or squid etc.

The other benifit of this rig is you can also hook the smaller fish like whiting etc.

[size=20]How to make a "float fishing rig"[/size]
(Guides for different types below)
Float fishing is the most popular way of fishing around this area by far. Even the professionals float fish whether it be for live bait or just to fish.

Most people start off their fishing lives by float fishing and it can be great fun and it very simple to do.


What you need
Spare line (you should always carry the excess line you have left over after filling up your reel)
Stop Knot or Rubber Band
Unlike bottom fishing most of your set-up will be on your actual main line which comes off your reel.

Start off by giving yourself plenty of line off of the reel. About 20 inches will do.

First thing you need to do is add your stop knot. A stop knot is needed to prevent the float sinking to the bottom.
Small, electrical tubing makes a great stop knot!

If you have a small piece of tubing for the stop knot then all you do is feed the line through it and then feed it through it again. It will now be very hard for the stop knot to move about and by pulling the line either side of the stop knot you tighten it even further. What you want is the stop knot to be tight but for you to still be able to move it up and down the line when your hunting for the depth of the fish.

Now you add a bead and leave it free flowing

Now you add the float and leave it free flowing

Now you add the weight and leave that free flowing

Now you add another bead and leave that free flowing.

Finally for this part you tie the swivel to the line.

Now cut yourself a piece of line from the line you carry with you around 10 to 20 inches. One one end tie it to the swivel and the other end tie on your hook.

That is all you need for float fishing!

[size=20]Types of Fishing Floats[/size]
There are many types of floats and people have asked what ones to use. Here is a quick guide:

1. Light-up at night float
This float has a second hole on the top to enable you to place night light stick. A good float but quite heavy. You can't cast great distances and it makes a lot of noise when it hits the water so you may scare away fish.
2. Polystyrene float
These cost more than all other floats but are worth it because unlike "3" it doesn't crack after a short amount of use. These are also good for distance casting because they are quite aerodynamic and use a quite heavy weight so good casting distances can be had. There is however, just like all the others, a problem with this float. I have found that this float scrapes the line and slowly weakens it. If you don't check every hour or so you'll find on a cast or reeling in a fish that your line will snap.
3. Plastic float
As mentioned above these floats tend to break and crack very easily. There is however a version the same size as "4" which is very good (see below)
4. The tiny float
If you are fishing a clam sea and distance isn't an issue these floats are great but the smaller version of "3" is better still. These floats are so sensative you can easily detect the smallest of bites. These are harder to use because there isn't much top showing but if you can get used to them you'll grow to love them. I will often use the "3" of this size because I catch more fish.
When distance and money come into things "2" wins hands down. Hard to break, lasts a long time and aerodynamic. It's possible to cast huge distances with this float.

When catching or detecting the smallest of bites matters the smaller version of "3" is a great float to use in calm waters.


The most commonly used rigs in my area. How you attach the snood is a matter of personal opinion but the bait must rest on the sea bed. Tilt the rig at an angle to check. I like to jam a swivel between two beads. The swivel and link swivel can be replaced by a link if you wish. I prefer swivels as they allow the rig to roll in to gullies and holes more easily. A short snood length often results in fish hooking themselves more easily but a long snood looks more natural. Possible to attach several snoods but tangling a problem. Using weaker line for the snood allows the hook to break free if snagged. The use of booms keeps the rig from tangling but decreases the naturalness and cast distance (I never use them)

[size=20]RUNNING LEDGERS[/size]

Ideal for shy fish like bass as the fish feels less resistance. Not a set up I use often but good for flatties. I tend to find these rigs snag easily and if the snood snaps the whole rig can be lost so best on clean ground. Another advantage of these rigs is the bait lies naturally on the sea bed rather than dangling in mid water. Attach the snood using a leader knot or double four fold blood knot, a bead prevents it from sliding past the swivel or lead. The Snood can be replaced with a wire trace for conger, tope etc. The 2nd rig can be altered by using weak line to attach the sinker for rough ground (short cast only)

[size=20]WISHBONE RIG[/size]

Designed to allow two baits to be fished close together (a very good way of comparing baits). Best tied with 20-25lb line as this has the right amount of stiffness. Sadly the wish bone is a tangle waiting to happen and two baits add a lot of drag reducing casting distance. Good for piers and harbours.

[size=20]WISHBONE RIG MARK II[/size]

This improved version makes use of a plastic swivel boom (any free moving boom will do) jammed between 2 beads and a short length of stiff line of about one inch between 2 beads. Combined they reduce tangles considerably. This is a short trace rig and is ideal for whiting and flatties off piers and harbours. The benefits of a wishbone rig are 2 different baits can be fished very close to each other and smaller baits can be used but still put out the smell of one large one. It is difficult to cast this rig any decent distance and is prone to snags over rocky ground.

[size=20]ROUGH GROUND RIGS[/size]

Three types of rig can be used. Both rely on the sinker being attached by a short length of line that is weaker than the main line (hence only the sinker is lost not the rig and leader line) Type B is the simplest to tie but cannot be cast hard due to risk of crack offs, use it for short range fishing or when using light weights. Types A and C are used when a long cast is required. A loop is tied on the end of the rig line as shown and hooked over a small nail in the lead (C) or over a combination bait clip/ lead clip (A) prior to casting as shown. On hitting the water the loop should fall off (hopefully) leaving the sinker attached by the weak line only. The snood length should be made of line that is weaker than the main line so the hooks will snap off. Use thin wired hooks as they bend straight if caught and tear through weed easily.

[size=20]LONG CAST RIG[/size]

The secret to all long cast rigs is streamlining as much as possible. This rig is a basic paternoster with 6 important differences.

The sinkerloop is on a stalk, these type of sinkers don't wobble as much as they fly through the air.
The shockleader and backbone of the rig is made from a low stretch brand.
Strong links replace the swivels at each end, links stand up to very hard casting better and are cheaper (good quality swivels are ok).
Bait clips are used to keep the bait tight against the rig rather than flapping around in mid cast. The top clip can be left out if the hook is tied by a shorter length of line. Bait clips can be bought or made from tubing and old hooks cut down. All in one link/baitclips are good for making rough ground rigs (see above) but I don't like them as bait clips as it can be difficult to set the snood the right length and tension.
Streamlined bait is used, worms cast further than whole peeler etc.
The main line on the reel should be as a low diameter as safely possible, 15 lb is ideal over clean ground.
Baitclips can be incorporated into almost any rig to improve distance. They also help keep soft baits on the hook and improve final presentation. They do however seem to attract loose weed alot. I prefer to reserve baitclips for when distance is essential and not to bother for any mark under 80 yards


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